When applying lash extensions, you always want to consider the clients natural lashes. When a professional decides what type of curl they use, it can greatly affect the client’s retention. This is why all lash artists should educate themselves about curl types.
So let’s start with my 5 lash curl types with classic lashing…
L CURL– These lashes are literally shaped like an “L”. They have a flat base then curl and point straight up. L curls are perfect for straight and downward facing lashes as well as bottom lashes. Clients who wear glasses daily may also benefit from these lashes because they are less likely to hit their glasses. Two other groups that would benefit from L curl? Hooded eyes and mono-lid shaped eyes. Professionals should avoid L curl if client has deep set or protruding eyes.
N (NATURAL) CURL– Natural lashes have a semi slight curl to them. They look the most like their name, natural. These give great retention on clients with fairly straight lashes with a slight curl. Apply N curl on those who wants basic length and just want that natural mascara look all the time! I tend to use these on clients who seem a little intimidated by lashes.
B CURL– These lashes have a straight base then curl at the end. This will give a look of wand curled lashes. These are perfect to apply on clients straight natural lashes. They are not great for clients with downward facing lashes or protruding eyes. Many lash artists are not the biggest fan of B curls. BUT- if your client is having terrible retention and claims they are “following all the rules!” you may want to pull a B tray out and give them a try.
C (CURLY) CURL– C curls are the most popular and requested lash curl. That is because it visually lifts the eye to give the open look without the extreme drama of a D curl. They give clients that beautiful curl they usually are requesting. C curl extensions are not the best idea for closed set, protruding or deep set eye shape clients. They are however, great for mono-lid and hooded eyes.
D CURL– These are the DRAMATIC ones. Literally, they are a half circle shape which makes them the curliest. D curls dramatically open the eye. They are used on naturally curly lash clients for everyday wear though shorter lengths are typically used on mature lashes. Clients with straight and downward facing lashes unfortunately will not get much from the lashes as they won’t stay very long due to their tight curl not having a steady base to attach to natural lash of the client. This means poor retention, even though it looks great immediately following their appointment! Clients with deep set eyes and hooded eye shapes may find this look TOO dramatic. D curls are typically applied for clients attending events and not seeking long term wear.
Always remember to mix the curls used on clients! This gives that customized look clients desire. Just make sure to use a majority of the lash curl that will help your clients achieve maximum retention. Don’t be afraid to educate your client on why you chose a certain curl either. I have found my clients LOVE being educated about their lashes. It is an investment for them, and they want best results for their money!
So there you go, it’s not one curl for all and there are factors that go into deciding curl type. The next part is deciding what length and diameter to used. Which we will cover in the future!
What is your favorite curl? Comment below!
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(featured photo: lashes by NovaLash trainer and 2017 & 2018 Brand Ambassador, Brigitte Sargent. IG: @theplumlash)